The garden shed proved to be cold as promised, but the sleeping bag was up to the task and in fact I slept well. Probably also something to do with the quiet. Or maybe it was the light gently filtered through the adhesive stained glass windows.
Hans, my room mate, left at the usual early time. I took my time and then went to the local hotel for breakfast; the usual café con leche, tostados as and orange juice. The only others so late were two French couples having a leisurely breakfast. Their table was groaning under the weight of fruits, tarts, juices, yoghurts and more. No mere Pilgrim breakfast for them! They had been doing the Camino in stages; this was their fifth year. Two sisters and their respective husbands. But it was the husbands who were the walking enthusiasts, the sisters following.
I set off and about ten minutes later had caught up with the morning peak hour traffic of walkers. It seemed I was constantly ringing my little bell and wishing people 'Buen Camino'. I'd discovered that often the bikers simply rushed past the walkers without even a warning of their approach; no wonder my little bell was appreciated and I got smiles in return. Soon I came across Hans and we exchanged photos. Then there was Mikel and a bit later Suzie, who was talkative as usual. No sign of Massimo. It wasn't until some 15 km later that I caught up with him. He must have left really early.
León was the objective for this (short) day. I wanted to spend some time exploring the city and get in early enough to be sure to get a bed. Mission accomplished and I am staying with the Benedictines tonight.
Walking around town I came across a Camino/outdoor equipment shop and went in to browse. And there was Massimo! He'd walked the 37 km and it wasn't even late afternoon: he must have been keen.
Waiting for the tourist office to open (they close for lunch; clearly tourists are expected to keep reasonable hours) I realised I hadn't had my morning café con leche. There a are worse places to have a leisurely coffee than on the square in León looking at the cathedral and the people there.
Dinner in a local bar where even though they serve a Pilgrim menu, it's the locals who are the main customers. Of course at 19:30 I am eating (since the albergues close at around ten) while the locals are just here for their drinks and tapas before going out for dinner (which they will do around the time that we Pilgrims are going to sleep).
I have passed the halfway point already!
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