This morning I was riding along and it struck me that it was a morning for the senses. It was cold with thick mist. The world had been reduced to a monochrome of greens and greys. Beautiful. It was quiet with the mist suppressing the usual noises. I could hear the gentle rustling of my chain through the cogs and the whir of the tyres on the road. But only just. Occasionally an early bird call. In the distant fields I caught an occasional glimpse of Pilgrims walking the nearby Camino.
At the albergue this morning early departures were the norm. By the time I left there was almost nobody left. On the washing line I saw a forgotten pair of woman's underpants and a pair of men's socks, waiting in vain to be collected. Maybe an interesting story there.
When arriving at the albergue I had been given the choice of a 5 euro bed or one for 7 euros. As if I was supposed to understand the difference. On asking I was told that the 5 euro bed was in a room with 14 beds and the 7 euro bed in a room with only 8 beds. Why not lash out and treat myself I thought? So I went with the 7 euro bed. I was alone in the room at first, but later Jonasch from Germany (but not Bavaria) joined me and we had the room to ourselves. Jonasch introduced himself as 'married' (he had a ring) but later it turned out that this trip was his pre wedding last solo trip 'my wife doesn't like walking' he said. When I commented on his somewhat unusual name - I thought it was perhaps more eastern European - it led to a discussion about an artist called Jonasch and he took out a small wooden toy, a stripy cow with wheels, and showed me the artist's signature: Jonasch. He'd been taking photos of the little cow all along the Camino. Cute.
Later on I come to a sign; 6% grade for the next 3 km. It's the Pyrenees all over again and the road climbs to 1150m at Puerto de la Pedraja. I feel like Puffing Billy blowing huge white clouds out with each breath. I've taken the road here to avoid the steep climb of the track, a strategy of limited success. I decide (since I have the time) to detour back to San Juan de Ortega to rejoin the Camino. It is here, after coffee, a sandwich and a chat that I drop the phone. Ironically in about the only place on the Camino with no WiFi and barely any reception.
While I'm there I see a blind guy with his guide dog arrive. I've heard about them and their amazing walk. It's a couple: he's blind and has his dog. But not only that. They are pushing a bicycle trailer with inside, like two little Gumnut Babies, are two small children, probably twins. And here I am thinking riding the Camino is a challenge!
I also meet ( on the road) the Dutch couple riding their tandem bike. I last saw them when going up the Pyrenees. They've ridden the roads the whole time.
I decide to continue along the Camino track, a poor choice as it turns out. The path is only just a track and it's so rough and rocky and steep that even the walkers are complaining. I end up pushing the bike for some three km. At the top of the hill there's a girl sitting in the centre of a circle of stones, probably assembled over the years by hundreds of Pilgrims (the circles, not the girl). As I approach she gets up to start walking again and we walk together. She's German (I detect a theme in the walkers I am meeting). She says her name is Marlene. 'Like Marlene Dietrich' I observe, immediately realising how corny that must sound. Happily she says: 'Das ist meine nameschwester' and I am let off the hook.
To be continued
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