The Engineering Review

So now that my Camino ride is over, in the best engineering tradition, here is a little review of the vital statistics and some details about lessons learnt. Let me say right out that my journey was not a race; the objective was not to go as far or as fast as possible. While I wasn't on a true religious 'pilgrimage', I did go for the chance to spend some time with myself, and to benefit from the whole experience. There were definitely some bike riders on the Camino (for example the Italian logo-lycra-clad teams)  whose objective was to 'do' the trip as fast as possible. These guys were doing 100 - 120 km per day (objective: do the trip in a week).

The Numbers

Total number of days: 18 (including one rest day in Santiago)
Total distance ridden: 1,031 km
Total time on the bike: 66.8 hours
Average speed for the trip: 15.4 km/hr

Average hours ridden: 3.9 hours/day
Average distance ridden: 60.6 km/day

Longest distance ridden in one day: 84.5 km (on the first day!)
Shortest distance ridden in one day: 34 km (second-last day)
Most hours ridden in one day: 6.2 hours (on the first day!)
Least hours ridden in one day: 2.1 hours (second-last day)
Highest average speed: 19.1 km/hr
Lowest average speed: 12.4 km/hr

Number of punctures: ZERO! A credit to the excellent tyres - in fact I had some comments on them from people who know about these things; I should have recorded the tyre details. I will also take some credit for being a little careful about how and where I rode, for example when riding on roads I tend to ride on the road and not the shoulder; it's on the shoulder that you will find all the little bits of glass and sharp stones and so on that have been brushed aside by the passing traffic.

While I am pleased to be able to say that I rode the whole (rideable) way - i.e. I rode up all the hills and did not get off and push, even though I was tempted a couple of times - when riding on the tracks, when the terrain got really rough or unsuited to the bike, I got off and walked. When you're spinning the back wheel for lack of traction going up a steep and rough track, it's time to get off.

The Bike

Riding up to 1350m and still smiling

Type of Bike: GIANT Futuro RS1 hybrid/touring bike. Front suspension, suspended seat post, Shimano SLX 30-speed, 28 inch wheels, disk brakes, mudguards (essential!), front and rear lights (essential!). In fact I added my own very bright rear LED light, and I am glad I did - it was obvious that I was being seen from a distance and several people commented on the light.

Panniers, Handlebar bag and helmet (with mirror)

Panniers: 2 x Ortlieb "Roller" 20 litre waterproof (really!) These are excellent at keeping your stuff dry, but don't have any external pockets and pouches for bits and pieces. 40 litres is enough room for all your stuff (except sleeping bag, mat or camping equipment if you're taking it).

Handlebar bag: not waterproof (really!) It's only after the first day's drenching, when everything inside the handlebar bag, including my camera, was soaked, that I discovered a little hidden pocket under the bag that contained a bright yellow plastic rain cover. I used this on subsequent rainy days. The bag detached easily from the bike ('QuickClick' I think is the brand) which is very handy when parking the bike to go into a bar for your regular café con leche. The map case on the top of the bag was very useful, even if poorly designed.

I rented the bike (a 'Comfort Touring Bike') from Bike Iberia and can absolutely recommend them. They prepare the bike to your requirements, ship it to your chosen departure point (in my case a B&B in St. Jean Pied de Port) and then when you're finished, you simply leave the bike (packed) at your final destination, let them know where it is and they come and collect it. And the customer service is brilliant. What a deal!

Favourite bike accessories

Arm warmers, reflective yellow riding wind/rain vest with zip opening (both really useful to control your body temperature, especially going up and down hills), bright LED rear light, and helmet-mounted rear-view mirror. It's amazing how many comments I got about the mirror, including from some walkers who wanted one (they are actually designed to attach to your glasses; I prefer to put mine on my helmet). I can't imagine riding on roads without a mirror - it allows you to check what's coming and also to check whether they have seen you (they put their indicators on, move over, etc.). As a related observation, I found the best drivers in terms of being sensitive to bike riders were the large trucks; they always passed with plenty of room - the same cannot be said for some car drivers.

How much stuff?

Total weight: 32 kg - 11/21  front/back  (as weighed before the trip, includes the bike, and everything on it including the luggage)
Luggage weight: 10 kg (not including weight of the bags or water & food)

Below is a picture of what I took with me on the trip. This was based on whatever research I had done (not that much!) and what little experience I had with long-distance bike trips (none!) and other camping and similar trips (mostly done with the not-insignificant assistance of a motor vehicle of some sort, making the choice of what to take not particularly driven by its weight). All of the stuff in the picture below adds up to 10 kg. There's another 2.5 kg of stuff I wore (shoes, clothes, gloves, helmet, money pouch), making the all-up weight of stuff taken 12.5 kg (again, not including food or water).

A layout of everything I took with me (taken before the trip)

The next picture is more-or-less the same layout, but showing what I brought back. On the Camino many people realise at some point that they have brought more stuff than they need, and they either start leaving stuff behind at the albergues, or packing it up and sending it back home. This latter option sounds attractive until you consider the cost of postage. I was too stubborn to take either of these options, and rode the entire journey with everything I'd brought, even though I knew there was some stuff I wasn't going to use (more on that in a minute). I did jettison one bottle (500g) of water which I'd carried over two mountain ranges and was never going to need, and I tried to avoid the trap of buying 'emergency bananas' just before a hill climb section. People (walkers included) tend to forget that the food (and water!) they've just bought 'just in case' probably weighs more than most of the stuff they've just sent home in the post. I actually only used a single bike water bottle for the entire trip (there are plenty of places to fill up); I carried an unopened 750ml water bottle I bought in St. Jean Pied-de-Port for the entire trip, just in case. Walkers, who take longer to get from one water fountain to the next, need to carry more water of course. Water is sort of important.

The stuff I came back with (compare with previous picture)

The last of the trilogy of images is what I actually used during the trip. I've left the first aid kit and emergency blanket, even though I didn't actually use either of them. I consider that they are essential items. I did read a post during my pre-trip research where someone had decided in order to save weight not to take a first aid kit as they had never used it on any previous trip. That struck me as pretty short-sighted and stupid; you don't take a first-aid kit because you're planning on using it. But this person was probably the same one that chose not to bring sunglasses since most of the walk is to the west (with the sun behind). Again, saving 80g might sound attractive, but you need to be sensible about what you save it on. One banana not bought that morning will save you considerably more weight than a pair of sunglasses, for example. Yes, you cannot eat your sunglasses if you get hungry, but you get the point.

The stuff I actually used during the journey (compare with previous picture)

You can manage a trip like this with very little stuff if you really want. For example, you can make do with only one spare set of clothes. You wear one set, and the other you carry. That means you have to wash every single day (or wear clothes more than one day of course) and you have to get those washed clothes dry in time to wear them the next day. It is possible. But the weight of a third pair of socks, underpants, and a T-shirt is probably worth the reduced stress levels when the weather turns wet. As everyone will tell you, layers is the way to go, and my layering: T-shirt, Long-sleeved cycling top, fleece jacket, and waterproof jacket was more than enough for any weather I encountered. In fact I never wore more than three layers (but then again, it wasn't winter either). The weight of all the stuff I didn't use (including the 1.4 kg sleeping bag, which I did actually use twice, but could have done without) was a huge 5 kg! That means if I'd really wanted to, I could have done the trip carrying only 5 kg of luggage. This is stretching it, but it's possible.

The other good thing I did was buy 'technical' clothing. That just means it's made of a material that is light and dries quickly. Believe me, it is worth it. You want your clothes to be dry by the morning when you have to pack them, and you want them to dry quickly on you if you get caught in the rain. You do see people walking in jeans for example, but I'm guessing those jeans don't get washed very often, and jeans are heavy, not particularly warm and take forever to dry when (not if) you get wet.

The fourth image in the trilogy (to take a leaf out of the Hitchiker's Guide to the Galaxy) shows the things I actually bought on the way: Gaiters (to stop the rain running down my legs into my shoes); a good map of Galicia to cover the bits where I wanted to explore away from the Camino; a Bluetooth keyboard (more on that later); a marker to track my route on the guides and maps; and waterproof over-pants (which I did bring, but which got lost in the Pyrenees in the storm). The ones I bought were much better, and lighter, than the ones I lost, so that made me feel a little better.

Things I bought on the way

It should go without saying, but I'll say it anyway, don't try to save on your shoes. Whether you're walking or riding, you need your feet to last the distance. Make sure they are waterproof and (especially for riding) that they have relatively stiff soles. You don't need hiking boots (even if you're walking), but good waterproof walking shoes are essential. And wear them in before you go - or you will end up with instant blisters in the first half day. Unless you're planning on riding with clips or SPD pedals (not a good idea for such a trip in my opinion) you can ride in good walking shoes. Don't forget that even if you're riding, you will also be walking.

Lessons Learnt

There's lots, and more than I can remember right now. But here's the high points (in no particular order):

• When things seem like they aren't going so well; remember it will get better
• Slow down and enjoy the ride
• It pays to buy the right type of clothing and shoes (see above)
• Pretty much everywhere in Spain has (free) WiFi. Every little bar or shop has free WiFi, it's amazing. You don't really need to get a Spanish SIM card to stay connected to the outside world. But if you really want to, the first place to get it is at Pamplona, and the best option (I did do a lot of research on this highly confusing subject) is the Orange Mundo SIM card. This essentially costs nothing, the calls are free for a week after each recharge (and you don't have to recharge at all if you don't want to make calls) and the data costs are very low: 6 euros for 500MB, 9 euros for 1 GB, or 15 euros for 2 GB, valid for one month [prices as of May 2014].
• If in doubt, don't take it. You can always buy it on the way. In the bigger towns (Pamplona, León, Burgos..) there are dedicated Outdoors / Camino shops that stock everything you could possibly want. And a lot of stuff you don't want (but which looks tempting anyway).
• Unless you're a really serious photographer, consider leaving your camera behind (assuming you are taking a smartphone). Most recent smartphones have pretty decent (very decent) cameras. One less thing to carry.
• If you're going to be writing a blog (!) along the way, consider taking a small lightweight Bluetooth keyboard. Much better than pecking away at the on-screen keyboard.
• If you're taking more than one electronic appliance (why?) choose ones that charge from USB so you only need to take one charger.
• While most people will agree that books are best left behind (they are heavy, and you won't have time to read them anyway) do take one good guidebook (preferably a small one) - I appreciated the amount of information many times (even if the maps in my guidebook were diagrammatic at best).
• Take a small hand-towel / washcloth in addition to your normal (microfibre) towel. That way in the morning you don't have to get your nicely-dried towel wet again. Drying things can be difficult and it's important to have dry stuff!
• Take a pair of light sandals suitable to go walking in so you don't have to wear your walking shoes all the time (if you're walking, your shoes will get very dirty and possibly wet). Many albergues won't let you wear your walking shoes inside anyway.
• The Camino gets busy in summer (so don't go then). Even in May it was already crowded in places. Try and stay at small towns away from the major "endpoints" of the daily walking stages. Some people book ahead. That may sound appealing, but it ties you down to going to that place, and you may want to stop earlier or find a perfectly lovely little spot you want to stop at for the rest of the day.
• Bring some earplugs - you only need one serious snorer in the dormitory to ruin your night's sleep.