Day 15: Santiago de Compostela (0km)

So here I am, actually sitting in the Cathedral in Santiago de Compostela. Hanging above me is the famous incense holder (the Thurible - I had to look that up) suspended from an impressively elaborate pulley high above. I can't stop the HSE training in me (thanks Schlumberger) wondering whether that single, albeit impressively thick, rope has been inspected or tested recently. During the Pilgrim mass that holder - how much does the Thurible weigh I wonder - is going to be swinging right over my head.

The rope - has it been checked lately?

 Regularly one of the Cathedral guardians walks up to a microphone and says: "sssshhhh silencio por favor" which acts to reduce the hubbub from the hundreds of people milling around for at least 30 seconds or so, before the sounds of hundreds of voices slowly rises again to the same level it was before. Scores of little illuminated screens are being held high; people trying to capture the event.

It's 11:20 and already the tension seems to be building in expectation of the 12:00 Pilgrim mass. I am uncharacteristically early, but it's been a relaxed and slow morning.

I've had a relaxed start to the day. This is the first time on the trip that I am actually staying in the same place more than one night. So no packing everything this morning; just my bed to make. Then after checking the weather forecast, a critical decision is made: it will be washing day. Things will have the whole day to dry and I have to take the opportunity that presents itself. It's impressive where your priorities lie when you travel.

For breakfast there are cereals! Another unexpected treat; after having had coffee and some form of bread every day so far, cereals seem a luxury. The South African girl I meet and chat with over breakfast celebrates with two huge bowls of Corn Flakes. I go for a discreet bowl of muesli.

Selfie with the "Two Marias"

I want to photograph the 'Two Marias' statue, and look at the map to plan my trip there. It turns out my albergue (the only one on the trip I've actually booked ahead; the day before) is about 2 minutes walk from the statues. It's about 2 minutes walk to the Cathedral in the other direction. I have chosen well. I have a view of the Cathedral over the red tiled rooftops from the bathroom; I can brush my teeth and look at the famous Santiago Cathedral simultaneously if I want. I take a selfie with the two Marias. Then I ask a couple of passing women (perhaps they are also two Marias) to take a picture of me next to the statue. "No, stand by the other side so she has her arm around you" I am instructed.

It's 11:35 and the tension in the Cathedral is palpable. It's almost quiet now.

The view while brushing my teeth

I have a prime spot as it turns out. First, I have a seat. Next, I am in the first row of the section. And now, best of all, a cathedral guardian has just come and blocked off the space in front of me so my view won't be obscured by people standing there. Later it will turn out that this was, indeed, too good to be true, although I do have an excellent view of the entire proceedings.

11:45 and the altar lights have come on. The gilding is very impressive. I now see the pulley system better and realise that the Thurible will swing the other way (in the transcept, and not the nave), so won't be coming overhead after all.

The Thurible is lit and the swing is set in motion

The mass is about an hour long; quite a show. It's a combination of singing (led by a nun with a good singing voice) and sermons by various priests including a short sermon by several different priests in each of their native languages; German, French, Chinese, Welsh (?) There's a sermon in Spanish by a priest with a decidedly Scottish accent. Quite an international theme, which in fact is the theme throughout the mass.

At the beginning there's a listing of the nationalities of the Pilgrims who have arrived the previous day, together with where they started their pilgrimage. All the Pilgrims are welcomed as friends. The collection bags are passed around and then it's time for the hosts; pandemonium breaks out as everyone rushes up to get theirs, but order is soon restored.

And then comes the main event; at least for most of the Pilgrim tourists if not the true believers: the filling, raising and swinging of the Thurible. Quite a show and instantly the 'no filming or cameras' rule is forgotten, as is the fact that the area in front of me has been roped off. All around cameras, phones and tablets are held up high to capture the moment.

In the afternoon I head off in search of a book store. Getting there I realise that I have made the classic 'foreigner in Spain' mistake of assuming that the shop will be open. Naturally it is closed when I get there at 15:30. But this one opens at the remarkably early hour of 16:00 so I go for a walk in the area. I discover that I'm in the grounds of the university; the different faculties are scattered around the streets with little green areas everywhere. A good place to sit and write some notes.

I immediately notice two things: everyone sitting in the park is glued to their smartphone (as, I have to acknowledge, am I as I write these notes), and although the place looks nice from a distance, it's unclean and unkempt. Broken bottles and rubbish spoil the ambiance. Still, it's turned out to be a glorious day and the sun is making an appearance. My washing will be drying nicely (must consider the important things).

Much later (but early by Spanish standards) I am having dinner at a little restaurant found with the help of TripAdvisor. Looking around at the other patrons it is pretty obvious that they are all Pilgrims of some sort. I hear French and English being spoken. I guess the local dinner service will start when we Pilgrims have left. Or only foreigners eat here. Either way, the food is good.The French-speaking couple leave; they're wearing bike shorts. I wonder whether they would have gone to a restaurant back home wearing bike shorts?

Evening performance has finished