Day 16: Santiago to Olveiroa (64km)

High up ahead, almost hidden in the mists, was a group of wind turbines spinning rapidly. Not a good sign. Firstly, because they were directly in my path. Secondly because they were high. Thirdly because there was mist there, and finally because they were spinning, indicating that it was windy - really windy.

Leaving Santiago; somehow it felt like the right thing to do

Last night in the albergue, at about 23:30, suddenly bang! the lights came on. Well, actually, the light didn't make any sound when it came on, but when you're fast asleep it certainly feels like that. Four Spaniards had arrived and were getting themselves set up, unpacking and chatting. Total disregard for anyone else. Several shouts and complaints were totally ignored. Then this morning, bang! On comes the light again and they're at it again. More ignored complaints. The Germans, rightly, were unimpressed. "They think they are alone in the world". Not a good advertisement for the locals.

Peunte Ponta Maceira

Rain. The rain in Spain falls mainly in Galicia. The forecast had not been promising, and expectations where met. Odd weather. What the forecast had called 'drizzle' was more like constant and pervasive light rain, accompanied by lots of wind. Soaking rain, making riding uncomfortable, particularly when wearing glasses. But the sun almost appeared all the while with the wind whipping gusts of rain.

What was going to be an easy day proved to be the opposite, although it was a good day nonetheless, much of spent on the Camino paths. But the hills! I'd not spent so much time in my lowest gear yet on the entire trip. Today the them was hills, including a memorable ascent where I rode a good half hour in the lowest gear going straight up the side of a hill. Not high passes, but steep, really steep. It was the first time I saw a 10% grade sign, and that was on a paved road, not one of the paths.

When I finally got up to the wind turbines, the wind and rain were confirmed. Nasty stuff. And then after a break at a rare bar (I had to wait until afternoon before my first café con leche) it was raining so much I left the path and took some roads. Which is when the map 'diagrams' of the guide I'd been using showed their true lack of use, proving to be completely inaccurate once off the Camino. I zig-zagged through the maze of tiny country roads and paths, following the general direction (west). It's when I discovered that little country roads have really steep inclines going down to creek crossings (and of course, steep again up the other side again). Eventually I spotted a walker up ahead; I had obviously found the Camino again. I pulled alongside and we walked / rode together for an hour or so. My legs appreciated the rest. "It's the first time a cyclist has stopped to talk" said Haerin from Korea.

Corn stores like this one are a common site (many permutations)

Some of today's path could have been Australian bush - vast stands of eucalyptus with ferny undergrowth. But there was no mistaking the rest of the countryside with the characteristic raised stone corn stores.

Tomorrow comes a fork in the road. Left to Finisterra or right to Muxia. I will go to both places; I just have to decide which one first. Like Yogi Berra said: 'When you come to a fork in the road, take it.' And that's what I plan to do tomorrow.

It was a wet day; the Camino down to Olveiroa