The long straight and rather boring ride out of Labouheyre is made a little more bearable due to the fact that it is cool, and with the morning sun just coming out and it having just rained, there is mist around, adding a touch of interest to the otherwise rather dull scenery.
I ride into Escource where the road terminates at a lovely green and shady square (which is actually circular so do we still call it a square I wonder?) It's obviously asking me to stop for a break. Just then, an older couple appear, riding identical folding bikes. She's got a basket on the front of hers, in which, sitting up straight enjoying the view, is a little dog. The couple make an interesting sight as they pedal to the local boulangerie. Dogs in prams, dogs on bikes, dogs in baskets, dogs in restaurants; dogs have it easy here.
 |
| Timber, tiles, and birthday "tree" at this pilgrim gite |
By now the housing is definitely quite different to further north. And not only is it different, but it's also more varied. You still get the usual rendered block-work, but there's more variety in the colour of the render (grey is popular.) The roof tiles, interestingly, are back to a more flat profile, although it's pretty much all terracotta now; not much slate to be seen here. But you also see plenty of the rounded Spanish style. Also making an appearance is timber as a cladding material and there's also a lot more exposed timber beams, particularly as part of the roof construction. Asymmetrical roofs are also not uncommon. A bit of everything then.
 |
| Another sign that I'm on the right road |
I see someone walking up ahead; they are towing a little trolley with a backpack on it. I pull up beside the anonymous figure - it's been raining and they are wearing a big rain cape. It's an older guy, and yes, he's walking the Camino. We chat a while and the subject of his trolley comes up, "I can't carry a backpack anymore" he explains, "the straps interfere with my pacemaker connection." Now that wasn't something I was expecting to hear! We talk some more; the usual where did you start, where are you going and so forth. Having just discussed the advantages and disadvantages of riding a bike versus walking, he volunteers that he shared a pilgrim gîte with two Dutch bike riders last night. Sure enough, they are the same two guys I had met yesterday. Looks they are sticking to their 100 km per day objective and so are ahead of me.
 |
Bike and 600-year-old oak at St-Vincent-de-Paul |
 |
| The fountain and cathedral at Dax (no surfers here) |
Dax is my destination for today. A little detour to the birthplace of St Vincent de Paul (which is in the eponymously-named town) before heading into the city of Dax, which is bigger than I'd imagined it to be. It also turns out to be much more touristy than I'd expected; thermal baths are obviously a big attraction. I ride around the town for a while, but the throngs of tourists put me off and I head towards a grassy square to take a break. There's a fountain and there's a group of four young people near it. One of them is wearing a wetsuit and is carrying a surfboard. Not exactly what you'd expect in the middle of a large town in southern France. Another has a funny hat on, and then one of the girls strips to her underwear. I'm glad I stopped; this could get interesting. Then all four of them simultaneously jump into the fountain, which is obviously colder than any of them (with the possible exception of the guy wearing the wetsuit) had expected, judging by the noises they are making (the guy with the surfboard just paddles around quietly.) This all lasts only a couple of minutes and they are out again, at about the same time as two police municipale turn up. Where they come from and how they manage to get there so quickly will remain a mystery. In any case, that's the end of my entertainment; the swimmers are sent on their way, the police move on to some other suspicious characters and I ride to my hotel.
On the way to the hotel, I ride past a restaurant and decide it looks like a possibility for dinner tonight; fresh produce, reasonable prices, interesting menu. Once I'm online I have a look at options for dinner and discover that the restaurant I had passed is the TripAdvisor number one rated restaurant in Dax. Interesting coincidence and I decide to book a table for one, not something I normally do, but since it can be done online I think, why not book for once? I arrive at the restaurant and there's my table, ready and waiting. So far so good. Shortly after I'm happily seated, I witness a succession of people arriving, only to be turned away after being told that the place is full; just as well I booked. There's a single waitress taking care of the whole restaurant; something like 25 people. And she's doing a great job with a great attitude. Again I am impressed. I'm even more impressed when I discover that the whole restaurant is actually run by only two people: the waitress and the chef, who is her husband. So one person the kitchen, which is downstairs, and one person front of house: and the service and the food is really good, although the "ding" made by the dumb waiter each time another meal arrives from the basement kitchen is a little distracting. Can't have everything.
 |
| Must be on the right road |
No comments:
Post a Comment